NOT JUST JULIET’S
Milan is where the global jet setters are
headed. But if you leave behind the
crowd, and head to Verona, whether it
is to attend the opera in its magnificent
Roman-era arena, or for a romantic
getaway, this small north-eastern Italian
city rewards those who take the time to
eat well, drink slowly and let the Adige
serenade their heart. TFTA friend and
insider Silvia Annavini, a long time resident,
shares her tips on where and what to eat
and drink, stay and meander!
By Silvia Annavini
Talking about Verona’s romantic charm may sound
pleonastic since its Shakespearean fame precedes
any other prerogative. However, one should
not forget its Roman heritage epitomized by the
imposing arena and the Roman theatre, kept alive by a
brilliant musical scene (both classical and modern). Beyond
Juliet’s balcony, literature runs deep here. Perhaps few know
that Verona was also a safe haven for Dante, welcomed by
Cangrande della Scala (mentioned in the Canticle of Paradise in
the Commedia) during his exile: a statue stands in the square
adjacent to the more famous Piazza delle Erbe, gazing
toward those Scaliger tombs that still command respect in the
main streets of the city center. Verona was also the birthplace
of Emilio Salgari, who, despite never having left that small
Italian town, imagined the amazing adventures of Sandokan.
Few cities wear their literary lineage with such grace.
Yet, the city, nestled in the northeastern part of Italy, close
to important European centres such as Milan and Munich,
seems to simultaneously live in two eras: Roman ruins cohabit
with an industrial and a brilliant economic vibe and wine is
a perfect metaphor to represent this multifaceted nature: on
the one hand, the tradition and history of the Valpolicella valley and, on the other hand, the glimpse of a wine business
attitude that led to the realization of Vinitaly, one of the
most important wine fairs worldwide. Moreover, being a
crossroad for European routes since Roman times, Verona
is currently pivotal and strategic for trade, and its main
economic sectors are not limited to the wine industry but also
include construction materials and marble, machineries, and
engineering. This Janus-faced nature makes Verona a perfect
spot for either a short or long Italian vacation, a small city
where it is possible to easily combine art and leisure with
excellent food and wine.
Wines, and trattorias to bookmark
Whether you are in Verona to attend the opera in the
Arena, for a romantic getaway, or for a business trip, the
city rewards those who take the time to eat well, drink
slowly, and stay a while. Wine is not only Amarone, but
varieties span from Soave to Valpolicella or Custoza, just
to mention a few denominations of origins that would
enhance the taste of a cuisine that is hearty and rich, tied to
centuries of old traditions. There is a full range of choices
from rustic trattorias to Michelin-starred restaurants that
offer the same authentic experience. Expect flavours from
almond, citrus, and wet stone (Soave) to sour cherry, spice,
and dried herbs (Valpolicella), with Recioto offering a
velvet, sweet finish for desserts.
I would start by mentioning my favourite trattoria right
in the heart of the city: Alcova del frate offers the best choice
of wine combined with excellent local dishes. You will be
welcomed as a privileged guest and will end up as a friend
by the end of the dinner, and you will definitely go back to try
their varied and mouthwatering menu. However, if you are
looking for a more insightful trip through Verona’s historical
and cultural heritage, Ristorante Dodici Apostoli represents
an iconic reference to consider. Diners can taste elegant
traditional dishes and visit a Roman archaeological site in the
same night. If you are in the mood for a cool and modern
restaurant with an original asset, Locanda Quattro Cuochi
offers Venetian classics, such as slow-cooked meats, as well as
dishes with a modern and sophisticated twist.
Aperitivo in the square, Italian tailoring shops
that still abide
However, what I like the most when in Verona is roaming
around and crawling through the bars that skirt the unique
main square, Piazza Erbe, where the market still takes place
and turns into a bustling piazza in the evening. Northern
Italy is where aperitivo was invented. Verona’s drinking
culture varies from spritz to wine and has to be paired with
“cicchetti”, that is, some small bites like bruschette of the
most various kind. In Piazza Erbe, there are many drinking
spots from where you can enjoy breathtaking sunsets on the
Lamberti Tower. Osteria del bugiardo is definitely the right
place to look out for if you feel like lingering in a noisy and
funny environment where locals and tourists mingle and can
end up in unexpected connections.
However, cocktail enthusiasts will not be disappointed, as
Archivio is Verona’s premier mixology bar. Tucked away on
a small street, this bar is known for its creative and modern
approach. Wandering aimlessly through the city’s alleys, one
can still stumble upon small Italian tailoring shops, vintage
bookstores, and antique shops. Personally, I love losing
myself in a book while sitting at one of the charming tables at
the Pasticceria Flego. Here, an impeccable Central European
atmosphere blends with the friendliness of the staff and
pastries so tempting that it would almost seem a sin to eat.
