Nostalgia redone at Le Meridien

TFTA reccos a staycation to rediscover the charm of this Delhi icon, along with some excellent pan-Asian food and stunning Windsor views

Its tall, glistening glass façade has been a Windsor landmark for several generations of Delhiwallas. Decades ago, its afternoon club was a draw for an entire generation of young women reluctant to party till late. And now, as afternoon music and dance clubs are back in fashion with Gen Z, at least in New York and London, so is the Le Meridien, albeit without CJs – as yet.

The iconic hotel has undergone a facelift and serious renovation and is all set to draw back its Delhi set with a dollops of nostalgia, some stunning views of central Delhi and a brand new restaurant perched on the top floor—where Le Belvedere once stood, now changed into a credible pan Asian Xo&Mi by Le Belvedere.

But first, the nostalgia. We were there for a staycation– an attractively priced package that the hotel has launched to introduce customers to its old-yet-new look and feel. And in fact, much of the hotel is how old-timers will remember it from the naughty ’80s. Visit the salon, for starters, not just for the smart service but just to see the veteran staff cater to old loyalists: An 80 year old getting her hands manicured, joking with the familiar staff, is a rare sight to see in the NCR these days. It is a peep into a Delhi lost to time, when everything was more intimate, Colonial and led by relationships people cultivated over generations. We are determined to revisit the salon just for the vibe, as also of course for the sharp cuts!

The Conti food at Le Meridien is also wholesome and French, in a rather Colonial Club style way, and reminds you of the 1980s-90s. We were happy to find no skimping on excellent cheese even in the daily buffet, as also a solid grill.

But it is Xo & Mi that is going to be a destination in its own right. At one point, the rooftop “flying saucer” held aloft on four sheer pillars was worth a dekko for Delhi’s glam set as well as the backdrop for countless pictures of film stars who always stayed at the hotel. Now, just across, is a gorgeous new pan-Asian restaurant that may be your next selfie soft too!

Go there for the food is our advice. Kula Naidu and Sid Mathur run a popular food consultancy especially when it comes to Asian, given Kula’s background. They were brought in to turn around this space and have done a great job. There’s sushi for gen z (as also sushi making classes). And dumplings, those crowd pullers. But you will also find a smattering of excellent and intelligent unusual dishes. We loved the okonomiyaki turned into an old-Chinese style prawn and sesame toast. And whatever you do, do not skimp on the mains. The crab that they serve in a Singapore style sauce has to be among the very best across Asian restaurants in the city.

The private dining room, in particular, should do well with large families or small parties—with a stunning Lutyen’s view to make this a very charming venue for your next exclusive meal.

Go back to the hotel, where we once thought riding up and down in those glass elevators was magical!