Syncretism on a leaf

Before its foreign influence, Kerala’s cuisine was largely vegetarian, centred around rice, coconut, and local veggies. Then the Arabs, the Jews, the Portuguese, the Dutch and the English added layers by way of newer ingredients, flavour profiles and techniques to give us what we now know as the state’s most delicious dishes

By Arun Kumar TR

Kerala’s unique location along ancient maritime trade routes allowed it to become a melting pot of different cultures, religions, and customs. This has resulted in a rich tapestry of culture, language, art, and cuisine that the state boasts of.

Kerala’s history as an ancient port vital to the global spice trade has played a critical role in shaping its cuisine, which is a melange of diverse influences. Long before modern trade routes were established, Kerala’s spices, particularly black pepper, cardamom, and cinnamon, were highly prized by traders from as far as Rome, China, and the Middle East. This bustling trade laid the foundation for the region’s rich cultural exchanges, with traders bringing not only goods but also culinary techniques, recipes, and ingredients from their native lands. The result was an organic blending of tastes and techniques that significantly expanded Kerala’s culinary repertoire.

Before the foreign influences, Kerala’s cuisine was predominantly vegetarian, centred around rice, lentils, coconut, and native vegetables. Coconut, grown abundantly along Kerala’s coast, became a staple in the region’s cooking, utilized in various forms like coconut milk, grated coconut, coconut oil, and coconut paste. The native vegetarian dishes were often flavoured with turmeric, ginger, curry leaves, and mustard seeds, which still largely define the flavours of Kerala.

From dates to cloves, chatti pathiri to Sulaimani Chai: The Arab influence

The first known foreign influence on Kerala’s cuisine came from Arab traders who arrived as early as 3000 BCE. Later, as the Jewish, Portuguese, Dutch, and British arrived, each community left an indelible mark on Kerala’s food. Unlike many other regions where foreign influences led to the creation of entirely new dishes, in Kerala, these influences were often harmoniously blended with native culinary practices, creating an amalgamation that remains popular to this day.

The early Arab trade had a profound influence on Kerala’s cuisine, especially in the Malabar region, due to centuries of cultural exchange and the spice trade. Arab traders brought with them not only exotic spices but also culinary practices and ingredients that integrated seamlessly with Kerala’s local food traditions. They introduced new ingredients, culinary techniques and flavour profiles leading to new dishes that were a fusion. While Kerala was already rich in native spices like black pepper and cardamom, Arabs popularized the use of cloves, nutmeg, and cinnamon in local cooking. Ingredients like dates, raisins, almonds, and cashews became staples in festive and sweet dishes. Though rice was the staple, wheat-based dishes like parotta became popular, inspired by Arab flatbreads.

The Arab influence is most evident in dishes like the Malabar Biryani or Moplah Biryani, where fragrant rice is layered with spiced meat or fish, much like the Arab-style pilafs. Techniques like marinating meat in spices and grilling over open flames reflect Arab methods. The use of a blend of sweet and savoury flavours, such as in dishes that combine meat with dry fruits or honey, echoes Middle Eastern traditions. Rosewater and saffron often used in desserts, were introduced by Arabs and are now common in Kerala sweets like chatti pathiri (a layered dish made of pancakes, meat, and egg, it closely resembles the Arab dish lasagna-like haree) and muttamala (a dessert made of egg yolk strands in syrup, inspired by Middle Eastern desserts like kunafa). The Arabs likely influenced the introduction of the popular sulaimani chai, a black tea along with spices to flavour it.

Arab trade not only enriched Kerala’s cuisine with new ingredients and techniques but also laid the foundation for the unique blend of flavours that characterize the region’s food today. This influence is most prominent in the dishes of the Moplah (Muslim) community in Malabar, where the synthesis of Arab and local Kerala traditions is celebrated.

Meen Kari and Cochin’s Jewish heritage

Jews were attracted to Kerala due to its thriving spice trade. Kerala’s ports, such as Muziris (near Kodungallur), were major centers of international trade, drawing merchants from across the Mediterranean and the Middle East.

The Copper Plate Grants (10th century CE) issued by the Chera ruler Bhaskara Ravi Varma to Jewish leader Joseph Rabban confirms the presence of a Jewish community in Kerala by this period. These plates granted Jews privileges, including freedom of religion and trade rights.

The Jewish community played a significant role in Kerala’s culinary evolution. They introduced their distinct spice blends and methods of flavouring food. Dishes like Meen Kari (fish curry) prepared by Cochin Jews often have a balance of tanginess and heat, using tamarind and local spices like black pepper and turmeric. They are also credited with popularizing dishes that involve stuffing, such as stuffed chicken or fish, where the stuffing typically includes a mixture of spices, onions, and sometimes bread crumbs or matzo.

The popular Meen Polichatu (Fish wrapped in banana leaves) is one example of this fusion. While challah is specific to Jewish Sabbath meals, Kerala’s Jewish community adapted bread-making to incorporate local ingredients and techniques. Their bread often resembles appam or pathiri. Jewish pickling traditions have had an impact on Kerala’s love for pickles. Mango pickles and other fruit; vegetable pickles with a sweet-spicy balance reflect Jewish methods adapted to Kerala’s produce.

Appam and Stew via the Portuguese

The Portuguese arrived in the late 15th century, leaving an indelible mark on Kerala’s food. They introduced many new ingredients which have now become an integral part of Kerala cuisine.

Chillies: The Portuguese introduced red chilies to Kerala, which quickly replaced the native black pepper as the primary source of pungency in cooking.

Tomatoes: A vital ingredient in many Kerala curries today, tomatoes came to India through Portuguese trade.

Cashew: Used in curries and desserts, cashew has become a popular ingredient in Kerala cuisine.

Potatoes: Introduced by the Portuguese, potatoes are now a common vegetable in Kerala dishes.

Tapioca (Kappa): Tapioca, a Portuguese introduction, has become a staple in Kerala, especially in rural areas. Today, tapioca with fish curry is a signature dish of Kerala.

The Portuguese also popularised techniques like baking and roasting, which were integrated into Kerala’s culinary practices. They introduced methods of marination with vinegar or citrus.

Meen Moli is a coconut milk-based fish stew which is inspired by Portuguese cooking styles. So is the famous Duck Roast served during Christian celebrations in Kerala. The unique take on the appam-stew combination is a hallmark of this influence. Appam, a fermented rice pancake, is served with a coconut-based meat or vegetable stew flavoured with black pepper, cardamom, and cloves. Other dishes include mappas, a mildly spiced chicken or fish curry made with coconut milk. The Portuguese influence is most evident in the cuisine of Kerala’s Christian communities, particularly in regions like Kochi and Kottayam. Their culinary heritage, combined with local traditions, resulted in a vibrant fusion cuisine that remains central to Kerala’s food culture today.