The new-old Churchgate

The 1.2 km stretch of Churchgate emcompasses Mumbai’s dining history. But as iconic restaurants pivot or change to invite a new generation in, nostalgia is very much on the menu still, says a one-time resident

By Parthip Thyagarajan

It’s just a short 1.2 kilometres stretch, but a time-lapse video of this stretch over the years could easily encompass the entire culinary history of Mumbai. The month was June, the year 1987. It was the first time I stood outside the Nagin Mahal building in Churchgate, which would be my home for the next 11 years.

As a child, I had already heard stories from my parents and cousins, who had lived in Churchgate for many years about the eateries at Nagin Mahal, especially Bombelli’s, famed for its desserts. However, I was tad disappointed at the three eateries I saw in front of me. Kamling, the Chinese restaurant, I was sure would be out of bounds for our vegetarian family. The “bar” in Sapna Restaurant and Bar made it inaccessible for 15-year-old me. And then there was Berry’s with a buffet price of “80 Rupees”, which told me immediately that I would not be coming here unless it was something like an annual get-together with the family.

Icons around the corner

It’s been decades since I lived on that street and so much has changed over the years. Riyaz Amlani took over Berry’s from his dad and has steadily become a restaurant mogul. The board outside Berry’s changed — from the college student hangout of Mocha, to the older crowd-welcoming Salt Water Café, to Soufle, the French restaurant and now Mezcalita. Kamling was renamed Foo, a chain that’s run by the sons of Henry Tham, Ryan and Keenan Tham. Tea Centre, an iconic space, once run by Prahlad Kakkar downed its shutters. And yet, so much remains the same, if more celebrated.

Once the ice-cream parlour next door, K Rustom & Co. has an iconic status today, thanks to a nostalgia-loving crowd on Instagram. What was Talk of the Town, became Jazz By The Bay and is now Pizzeria by the Bay. The street has also witnessed the rise of some fine-dining names such as the vegetarian Thai restaurant TOA 66. Then, there’s the immensely popular Rameshwaram Cafe, which is coming up at the building which once house Eros Cinema, and is also now known as the building which houses Nita Ambani’s Swadesh. Wagamama has opened in the same building at the spot where there once stood Sundance.

In the 1960s and ’70s, Churchgate was a place for nightclubs. And while eateries have always been a highlight, the mix of young and the middle-aged SoBo residents and

tourists that they brought in one lane was always interesting to see. Students from Jai Hind and Sydenham, KC and HR Colleges, along with office-goers who were many

more at that time, thanks to the fact that there were lots of offices between Flora Fountain, Churchgate and Nariman Point, and visitors who would be in Marine Drive.

And not to forget the affluent or the well-heeled who lived between Chowpatty and Cuffe Parade, with Churchgate right at the centre.

While those times were not comparable to today when eating out is a lifestyle/career in its own right—and ordering in was virtually non-existent—restaurants catered to all

kinds of budgets. There was Satkar and Mathura Dairy Farm for office-goers, who wanted to or had to eat lunch out daily. Purohit and Samrat—which still stands strong—dished out the grand thalis for family meals. For those born after, Purohit opened in 1939 and shut in 2000. They continue to cater and the space they occupied later became Indian Summer restaurant and banquets, which was discontinued this year. “Now we have Mockingbird Cafe Bar, which is frequented by the young as well as people our age. It’s a café with breakfast, lunch, dinner and a bar,” says Chetan Purohit, from the family, adding, “Churchgate has always been a restaurant lane. Now a few retail shops have come…. Churchgate is the hub as the courts, Mantralaya, the stock exchange and a lot of offices are here. The Churchgate station and now the metro, bring people here for their daily commute.”

A new taste as the street gets a makeover

Any change in infrastructure and economics has a huge effect on culture. Divij Lamba, owner of Gaylord, gives a perspective of over the years. “Post-1991 economic liberalisation brought noticeable changes. Corporate offices expanded, multinational companies entered South Mumbai, and retail spaces became more organised. Old cafés and Irani restaurants continued to coexist with newer restaurants and branded stores. Churchgate began balancing its old-world identity with a more modern, aspirational lifestyle. Between 2010 and 2020, Churchgate saw infrastructure upgrades, better public spaces, and a rise in premium dining, boutique hotels, and cultural venues. While technology, improved transport, and changing work culture modernised the area, its heritage buildings, iconic railway station, and cultural institutions ensured its historic character remained intact,” Lamba says. Gaylords has been a steady home for those looking for Punjabi fare in this part of town. Established in 1956 by partners Ghai & Lamba, the legacy continues with the new owners Dhruv and Divij Lamba being the torchbearers of this iconic restaurant.

Another culinary landmark is Shiv Sagar. It was a small juice parlour when NT Poojari started off. It opened in Churchgate in 1991 and was sandwiched between Kamling and Berrys. Poojari’s daughter Ankita adds, “Over time it slowly grew and added more dishes like idli, dosa, pav bhaji and later even Mexican and Italian food. A lot has changed over the years but taste has always been the one constant.” Some of the most iconic restaurants in this lane were served by Ambassador Hotel. Its most popular offering was Society, which still is very popular. Then there was the revolving restaurant. The view of Queen’s necklace that they offer is difficult to compete with. Then, there was the Pearl of the Orient, a mix of Thai, Chinese and Japanese as well.

Vivek Raghunath, Business Head for Wagamama, speaks about the restaurant located in the Eros/Cambata building overlooking the beautiful Oval Maidan. Picking Churchgate was a strategic move. “The Cambata building at Eros was chosen because it’s a recognised landmark with visibility, history and charm, and the local demographic is well-travelled and familiar with the brand,” adds Ragunath. “Nearby premium food and retail brands and developments are reinforcing Churchgate as a vibrant, coveted neighbourhood for world-class dining and lifestyle experiences. With Churchgate being even more connected, it’s making it a hot spot for dining out or movies for people from multiple parts of the city,” he adds.

There’s nostalgia and newness, and you could walk down the street for either.

The author is the Co-founder and CEO of WeddingSutra.com